A Book of Trout Flies - 4

Needle Tubes and Tube Flies

Salmon Fishing

Trout Fishing

Sea Trout Fishing

Fishing Articles

Fishing Maps

Fly Tying

Site Contents


Salmon Fishing Scotland

Salmon - Where to Fish

Salmon Fishing Tackle

Salmon Fishing Tactics

Salmon Flies

Trout Fishing Scotland

Trout- Where to Fish

Trout Fishing Tackle

Trout Fishing Tactics

Trout Flies

Sea Trout Fishing Scotland

Sea Trout - Where to Fish

Sea Trout Tackle

Sea Trout Tactics

Sea Trout Flies

Fishing Maps of Scotland

Fishing Articles

Fly Tying

Fishing Photographs

Book of Flies

Fishing Diary

Where to Stay

Fishing Clubs

Fishing Tackle Shops

Fly Fishing Knots

Fishing Weather

Fishing Books

Salmon Recipes

Flies Online




HMH Tube Fly Tool

Trout Flies for the River Clyde

Compiled by Tom Forsyth of Lesmahagow (1907 - 1999)

Page 4

 Salmon Spinhead




Grays of Kilsyth

Salmon Flies

Trout Flies

Fly Fishing Knots

Sea Trout Fishing

Sea Trout Flies

Tube Flies

The Tube Fly Shop

 Slim stainless steel salmon and sea trout flies


Online Fly Shop

Favourite Flies for the River Clyde (continued)



The materials needed for the wings are six fibres from a mallard flank or shoulder feather, and they must be long enough to form both tails and wings. As small dry flies are the main object of this loop wing method of tying, this does not present much of a problem. These fibres are tied on top of the hook shank at the position where wings are normally fixed (fig 1). The front part is now doubled over to form the wing, and its length can easily be regulated by using a dubbing needle as a "controller". The length having been decided, the doubled section is now tied down (fig 3) and fixed in the upright position with turns of silk close up to its front (fig 4). The wing is now divided exactly in half, also with the help of the dubbing needle (fig 5) and the two sections thus formed are kept permanently separated with one figure-of-eight turn between them. The tying silk is now taken back to the tail end of the hook, the body added (in this instance a dubbed fur one) and taken up almost to the wings (fig 6). At this stage the hackle is added, being tied in with turns of the silk and body, which is then continued in front of the wings, and the fly finished off in the usual manner. The complete effort should appear as in fig 8. It is an exercise in tying and material economy which is both simple and successful.  

The Loopwing Fly



Russell's Grannom is tied on a size 14 hook and has a body of Heron herl with a green d.f. wool tip. The wing consists of a bunch of blue dun cock hackle fibres clipped level with the hook bend. The head hackle is ginger cock. The tying silk is green. This fly is an excellent floater, although it also kills at times fished sunk. It has accounted for a great many trout.  

Russell's Grannom Fly



Hook: Size 16

Tail: Red Wool

Body: Fine gold wire, flat gold tinsel.

Hackle: Dark ginger cock

Tie in a small piece of red wool for the tail. Then tie in a piece of fine gold wire, which will be used later for ribbing the flat gold tinsel body and tying down the palmer style hackle. Wind on the flat gold tinsel for the body and tie in a dark ginger cock hackle and wind this down the hook stem towards the tail - over the top of the flat gold tinsel in a sort of ribbing fashion. Now bring the ribbing wire over the end tip of the hackle and fix it down at the tail. Snip off the tip of the hackle and start ribbing the body and the body hackle with the ribbing wire.



Goldie Fly




Although this pattern is probably one of the best known of the Clyde flies, its popularity is by no means confined to that river. It is popularly regarded as a late summer pattern and is a sound fly to have on the cast from then until the end of the trout season. It is normally fished on the tail or as a first dropper in size 14 or 16. It should be dressed sparsely, with a minimum of materials, and the wing should be set down flat over the back of the body.

Start off the dressing by winding on the body, which is of yellow tying silk. Some Clyde fishers opt for a short flat gold tag at the end of the yellow body, but when the Cran Swallow is taking fish, the tag does not seem to matter. The wing consists of strips of the secondary wing feather of the swift, rolled over so that the light side of the feather is outermost, and tied down flat. For the hackle, which needs only one turn at the most, you should use a bronzy breast feather from a starling, tied in and wound on after the wing has been put on.


Cran Swallow Clyde fly

Tail: None

Body: Waxed primrose tying silk

Wings: From secondary wing feather of the cran swallow, otherwise the swift, light side out and tied flat along the hook shank. A good substitute is a starling wing dyed faintly blue dun.

Hackle: A bronze tinted body feather from the starling, one turn only.



Tail: Two or three blue dun hackle fibres

Body: Stripped quill from peacock eye feather showing distinct markings.

Wings: Smokey blue from secondary wing feather of snipe or fieldfare, light side out and set upright.

Hackle: Smokey blue, otherwise blue dun, one turn behind wings.



Tail: None

Body: Waxed primrose tying silk

Wings: From secondary wing feather of hen blackbird, light side out and tied flat along the hook shank

Hackle: Black hen, one turn only


Hen Blackie Clyde Fly


Next page

see also  




flies-1 ] flies-2 ] flies-3 ] [ flies-4 ] flies-5 ] flies-6 ] flies-7 ] flies-8 ] flies-9 ] clyde-wet-flies-1 ] clyde-wet-flies-2 ] clyde-wet-flies-3 ] clyde-wet-flies-4 ] clyde-wet-flies-5 ] clyde-wet-flies-6 ] clyde-wet-flies-7 ] clyde-flies ] clyde-dry-flies-1 ] clyde-dry-flies-2 ] clyde-dry-flies-3 ] clyde-style-nymphs-1 ] clyde-style-nymphs-2 ]

Trout and Salmon Fishing