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HMH Tube Fly Tool

Trout Flies for the River Clyde

Compiled by Tom Forsyth of Lesmahagow (1907 - 1999)

Page 2

 Salmon Spinhead

 

 

Resources

Grays of Kilsyth

Salmon Flies

Trout Flies

Sea Trout Flies

Tube Flies

The Tube Fly Shop

Salmon Fishing Scotland

Trout Fishing Scotland

Sea Trout Fishing

Sea Trout Fishing Book

 

 
 Slim stainless steel salmon and sea trout flies

 

Online Fly Shop

Favourite Flies for the River Clyde (continued)

OLIVER KITE'S COPPER WIRE NYMPH

Size 18 hook and copper wire

 

WOODCOCK SEDGE

by D.J. Davies

Hook: Size 13

Body: Plumpish, bright plum-coloured filament nylon dubbed roughly

Wing: Woodcock primary, long and low

Legs: Two turns of natural, small black hackle

This was my discovery: so long as the fly floated naturally, it was ignored, but as soon as it began to drag, it would be attacked in seconds.

 

THE "POLYMAY" MAYFLY

by Richard Walker

 SPENT FEMALE

Wings: Blue Dun cock hackle points set on flat

Hackle: Furnace cock

Body: Plain polyethylene foam, nor covered

Silk: Including ribbing, dark brown

Tails: Pheasant-tail fibres dyed dark sepia

 

FEMALE SUB IMAGO

Wings: White cock hackle points dyed pale sea-green set vertical

Hackle: Two turns brown partridge, plus several turns ginger cock, long in the fibre

Body: Polyethylene foam covered with overlapping turns of a narrow strip of straw coloured raffene, dampened before it is would on

Silk: Including ribbing, medium brown

Tails: Natural pheasant tail

 

The procedure is first to tie in wings and hackles with their stalks lying along the hook shank, pointing towards the bend. These stalks are cut off just short of where the hook bend commences. At that point, the tails, ribbing and outer body material, if any, are tied in and the silk taken back to the shoulder of the fly. Here a strip of polyethylene foam is tied in. The strip is wound to the tail-roots and then back, over the first turns, to the shoulder, giving a double thickness. Then the outer body material, which is a narrow strip of raffene, is wound over the body and secured, followed by the ribbing. The ribbing near the tail can with advantage consist of two sets of four or five close turns before the open spiral commences. The wings are then set up and the hackles wound in the normal way. Polyethylene foam is buoyant and if a fine wire, long shank size 10 hook is used, the resultant artificial has splendid floating properties. But despite the buoyancy of the body, they will benefit from a dressing of silicone-wax floatant.

 

THE JULY DUN

This is a small dark olive dun which, as its name suggest, most often makes its appearance on the water in July, or The July Dunpossible August. Because of its smallness it is often mistaken for the Iron Blue Dun. It is a very old pattern and is most often used as a dry fly, to be floated over trout or grayling. The tail of this fly consists of several fibres of medium olive cock, the same feather being used for the hackle. For the body use a piece of heron herl dyed yellow, and rib this evenly with the finest gold wire. Try to give the fly a thinnish look and tie it on very small hooks never larger than size 16 (old number). The wings, which should be short enough to correspond with the minuteness of the natural fly, are made from strips of very dark starling. Some fly dressers use single wings while others prefer to have them doubled, but the latter, I think, make for a rather bulky fly, when the natural is comparatively small. You can dress a hackled version of the July Dun by using the same body and setae but a darkish dun cock for the hackle. For the spinner you can use gold coloured floss, ribbed with fine gold wire, for the body. The hackle is ginger cock, as are the setae, and the wing is pale starling or bunched fibres of blue dun cock.

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